This is very interesting, thank you for the information and pictures! While some people hate how the DiiiCooler obstructs view of the nozzle, its performance is impressive enough that I can easily put up with that. Not sure on this specifically but I can say that before I got my radial fan I was seeing a ton of artifacts on the side of the print opposite of the stock fan. These can then be instructed with G-code, from Slic3r, to turn on or off as the model requires, and to rotate at different speeds. Learn how to find the perfect print speed settings for PLA and more materials! Stringiness is generally based on retraction length. I am one that has had issues with the DiiCooler cooling the nozzle. Most importantly though is you want the fan to be ducted and aimed at the print. It would totally fit on the stock fan mount. Fan speed. Keep your loose coils wrangled with a spool holder like masterspool for a more trouble-free experience. Here are some great tests on different shroud types. Which is why I'm running the server fan. It should also not cool the heater block of the hot-end so as not to force it to do more work and waste energy. We use cookies on our websites for a number of purposes, including analytics and performance, functionality and advertising. Press J to jump to the feed. The first picture is supposed to have a straight slot in the middle, which is a part for the printer, totally unusable at the moment. Going cowboy on your spool handling can quickly end up in a frustrating, tangled mess. Thus, it can result in two cases; the material does not get out of the nozzle as the nozzl… Press J to jump to the feed. Here are 3 different layer heights at the same fan speed, blowing a shitload of air straight at the printed area, pictures comparing it to the stock cooling setup. Having used a Diii cooler with my mildly upgraded Maker select before going to the Titan V6 conversion with it's unidirectional cooler, I can say that a ton of air can help with PLA, but you still run into the problem of the side getting the air having better overhangs or if the part is thin/filament is flexible, the part actually getting pushed in the direction of airflow. We found that lower temperatures and higher temperatures had a bad effect on the extrusion of shredded PLA. This is a very wide range and you’ll need to e… /r/3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing. Edit I didn't include it in my post yesterday but I did prints at 50mm/s, 75mm/s and 100mm/s. Find out more about loose coil handling in Keith's blog post. Therefore Premium PLA is available on large spool sizes. Another possible solution is to program stops between layers in the rolling software (Cura, Simplifiy3D, etc) The relationship between printing speed and extrusion temperature Reduce oozing: because of PLA’s fast flowing speed, oozing and stringing can occur, making prints look less polished.By optimizing your retraction settings you can mostly prevent this from happening, Simplify3D have a guide here for working on this in your 3D slicer. over just a bunch of straight-on directed air. At no point did I see a plateau in performance. Everyone knows that PLA likes fan cooling! For what it's worth, I am using a 12V 0.15A blower with a rated air flow of 4.21 CFM. Print at a low speed. The Tune menu is only available during active printing. Still, when it comes to a PLA part cooling fan I'll take the most I can get. The DiiiCooler (in my opinion at least) is a kind of hybrid between the "surround" and the "sharp nozzle." If you’re using a standard E3D V6 HotEnd* , you can reliably process a maximum of 847 cubic millimeters of PLA per minute. The only solution is to try, try and try again ! This piqued my curiosity as to how much of a difference fan speed can make. Tuning 3D print speed can be tricky. I'm thinking about designing a fan shroud that accepts two 40 mm fans so I can wire them in series, since 24v fans are really hard to find, and I have a million 40mm fans sitting around. As having an unleveled bed leads to deviation in the distance between the nozzle and the bed. I don't have a dii cooler with a radial fan right now though. Most comparisons seem to be between a radial cooler with a blower against the stock garbage cooler. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts, MP Maker Select 2.1, MP Select Mini, MP Mini Delta, S.T.E.V.E. Fan Full on at Height: .5mm Speed Min: 35% Speed Max: 75% Minimum Speed: 10mm/s Cool Head Lift: unchecked (unless needed for tiny complex sections) Soft PLA I've always printed PLA at 180 - 190. The performance gap between the 40mm stock axial fan and 50mm blower fans has been pretty thoroughly documented. After a while, we slowly increased the temperatures and after that decreased the temperatures. Add more insulation to your heat block if necessary. Up next is PLA, or polylactic acid, another popular material used among the 3D printing fans. The amount of energy a filament can absorb during printing depends on the length of the hot-zone and the time it takes for the filament to pass through the hot-zone. Fan Speed: 100% Best Practices These tips will help you reduce the chances of common 3D printing issues associated with PLA such as stringing, oozing, or under-extrusion. This is why the speed may be different for different materials. $17.95. I found one I Really like that mounts behind the X smooth rods so you have good view of the nozzle but it won't work as-is and I need to modify it to work. Flow & Efficiency as functions of Shaft Speed & R-line • Turbines: Corr. When your nozzle is touching the bed, try to have your DiiiCooler about 2mm off the bed. Flow and Efficiency as functions of Shaft Speed & PR Retraction: As the Ender 3 has a Bowden style setup, retraction settings are much higher. I suspect my DiiCooler is too high and cools off the nozzle - I've had to limit it to 50%. I don't have a perfect side-view with me on this PC. Temp sensors and hotends are not all created equal I', guessing. Here's a very recent post from /u/DinnerMilk and the DiiiCooler page has pictures comparing it to the stock cooling setup. It can't shape flow nearly as effectively as the Diii, which better takes fluid dynamics into account. You definitely want cooling from all angles. Cobalt Blue Metallic PLA 3D … Yum. Print settings, such as printing temperature, speed, bed adhesion, and extrusion rates will be very similar to the normal settings used for the base material that the fibers were added to (for example, the stock PLA settings would be a good starting point for PLA … I can't throttle it at all though, because I have the i3 plus which is 24 volts, and the fan is a 12v fan, so I'm running it via one of those buck converters that is damn near ubiquitous on Aliexpress. Care should be taken with the positioning of the fan so that it does not cool any heated bed more than necessary. A thicker filament will take longer to heat up, and thus needs to be printed slower. If you look at the last 2 pictures, this stuff was coming apart pretty easily printed at 195/55. JohnKo. Derived from corn and other renewable starches, this biodegradable material is both environmentally friendly and smells like sweet pancake syrup. Now it is better aimed. My fan speed has always just been limited to 80% of maximum because I had 2 ducted fans and they were too much for the hot end to handle at 100%. Retraction distance: 5 mm Retraction speed: 45 mm/sec: Part-cooling fan: This should be on. Do you have a good side view of just how much the tip shows from under the cooler? Most electronics and firmware allow the addition of a fan via a spare connector. Out of stock. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast. Improve this question. Why test this? I can run a few prints if you'd like to see a comparison. Fortunately, these techniques are relatively simple and don’t require sophisticated equipment.… The longer a filament will reside inside the hot-end, the more energy it can absorb which will increase the amount of expansion. The "surround" model used in the above tests has more of a downward aim (less towards the tip of the nozzle) with less focused direction applied. Of course there are many faults with this approach. Follow I recently ran overhang tests to look at the efficacy of different fan speeds. Run a PID tune with your bed at printing temp and the fan running at 100% so that your PID values reflect printing conditions. To me, this looks exactly like what I'd expect printing with layers almost as thick as the nozzle diameter and insufficient hotend temperature or excessive speed. Have your minimum layer time set to about 35seconds so on smaller objects it'll slow down and give the print time to cool. Is this the main print head fans, or an additional? I printed numerous copies of the ATOM 80 Degrees Overhang. PVA should be completely dry/dried for best results. It does seem like your initial driver was claims the blower is far better than stock, yet you never compared stock fan at 100%. As for fan speeds, I always print PLA with 100% fan speed, ramping up from 0 at layer 1 to 100% at layer 10. Quick view Add to Cart. I had indeed been curious about some of this, especially after my post yesterday comparing the results from stock to Dii. Premium PLA is a slightly harder PLA with an excellent thermal stability and a slightly faster crystallization process of the 3D printed layers and is often used for large(r) scale prototyping on industrial-sized 3D printers. I'm pretty satisfied with the improvements obtained by reducing the fan speed and the quality of the suspended structures thankfully to the addition of the support interface and the extra distance: not the easiest supports to remove, but definitely the best aesthetic result so far. ", "I print PLA with about 30% fan speed on a diicooler", "I have to keep my blower fans under 70 or it will really struggle to maintain temp or never reach target at all. We also tried increasing and decreasing the extruder speed and the fan speed, but this also resulted in a less good filament. The PLA it can print at 210-215 ° while for the speed 35-40 mm / s. With these settings it prints well, but depends on the quality of the PLA. Cris. I've always printed PLA at 180 - 190. August 6, 2018, 9:18pm #2. i would connect the fan to you’re arduino e.g motherboard, (If you are running a far more powerful blower, please let me know so I can pick one up). I printed the DiiCooler out of PLA and i'm thinking it has warped, but I do think it needs to be a bit lower than I had it anyways. Also, avoid sharp bends and excessi… I would like to know how to find out the best application of print cooling for a given PLA filament, - that is fan speeds and setup in a slicer of your choice (to learn what the different options are). When the print head fans are enabled, you can adjust certain parameters. If you want to run your fan harder but have trouble maintaining hot end temp, I have some suggestions: Make sure the airflow is focused more towards the tip of the nozzle than the heat block. Initial speed: 10m/s; Wall Acceleration: 300; Print speed: 25m/s; PLA Retraction Settings. Note that the 0.12mm layers curled enough to collide with the print head and cause layer shifting. Still, when it comes to a PLA part cooling fan I'll take the most I can get. The second pic is a threaded piece of the first one which looks ok at first glance but the threads are horrible, same for the threads on the first one. PLA is also more rigid and “sticky” than ABS, so it’s less prone to warping. If you don't want to read and just want the album, click here: http://imgur.com/a/dZa9Y. PVA used as a raft will stick well to tape. Increase your retraction length and you should get rid of the strings (too high a temp can also have some effect, so a light reduction could help). Setting the print speed needs to take into consideration the temperature you’re printing with and the thickness of your filament. Unless someone is running a far more powerful blower, I find it hard to believe that decreasing the fan speed doesn't have any impact on print performance. This pic is the closest. Although some filament materials are more prone to warping than others, special techniques will be needed to prevent warping in practically all types of filaments. I'm getting a lot of strings of filament and I can see the nozzle is moving previous material is layed out as it's adding layers so leaving it all warped. The diameter of the nozzles and the speed at which the extruder presses the PLA into the hot end are also decisive for setting the printing temperature. None of my testing was with the stock fan at all. The comparison shots I included were both done at 50mm/s but I may try again at 75mm/s and 100mm/s to see how much it improves them. I can't run mine at 100%. When not in the printer extruder, tuck it away in the cardboard spool's corrugation! Raise3D Premium PLA_TDS Jun.2019 Version 4.0 Recommended Printing Conditions1 Parameter Recommended Setting Nozzle temperature (°C ) 190 - 220 Recommended build surface BuildTak®, Blue Tap Build plate temperature (°C ) 40 - 55 Model cooling fan Turned on Printing speed (mm/s) 50 - 70 Raft separation distance (mm) 0.1 - 0.2 Eco White PLA - 3D Printer Filament 1.75mm 1 kg 2.2 lbs. With a radial fan the temperature dropped to 160 almost immediately! When used with ABS as a support material, you should keet the PVA support VERY close (0.1mm) to the ABS surface and use high support density for the PVA. It has 5 sections of increasing difficulty: 30°, 45°, 60°, 70°, and 80°. We only need to consider two factors here. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast. interesting, wonder how many people are cooling off the hot end that are complaining about temp on hotends. I have a blower fan pointed at the print with a duct to keep the flow away from the hot end. Downside is that they sound like jet engines, and I wouldn't be surprised if they induced some sort of artifacting from vibration (or even gyroscopic progression). I don't think any of them are especially analogous to the DiiiCooler though. /r/3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing. Fan HPT Bypass Nozzle Core Nozzle Inlet Core Shaft Fan Shaft Fuel VSV VBV Combustor LPC LPT 10 20 21 13 24 30 41 48 50 70 90 Ambient Conditions -Thermodynamics • Compressor/Fan Maps: PR, Corr. print-quality heat-management print-fan  Share. Leveling the bed is one of the most important tips when it comes to a quality and a successfully 3D print. Edit: I also don't really know if I should be changing printing speed or extruder speed, been leaving that default. I can see the previous layer wiggling around as the new layer is being put on, which tells me it's too hot or not cooling fast enough. Print speed: A general recommended speed of 60 mm/s works great, balancing quality with printing time. Up to 230 when printing at larger layer heights. However, printing PLA is usually good at any speed between 30mm to 90mm/sec. Print quality was not affected by the lower speed". Assuming nozzle size a… I run my blower fan at 100% through a DiiiCooler for all PLA printing. I don't have any trouble maintaining print temperatures (more on that later), but some people here do. Quick view Out of stock. A higher speed allows for better cooling and reduces oozing, but can also increase the shrinkage of the material. ; Use a cooling fan: a cooling fan makes a huge difference in quality, and prevents the plastic … I'm personally using that cooler with good results, largely because I find the dii/cii coolers to be less aesthetically pleasing, and also because I haven't seen any convincing evidence of their superiority over just a bunch of straight-on directed air. Strings can be reduced with greater retraction, but be careful not to retract too much. I'd use even more fan speed if I could. I see a lot of recommended temperature settings for nozzle and the bed depending on the material but what about fan settings? I can't print ABS at the time being, so i'm looking at other coolers. I was running one with the stock fan (Maker Select), With that the temp would drop 5 or 10 degrees but I could compensate by having my initial temperature a little hotter. My initial driver was to evaluate claims like "print quality was not affected by the lower speed [of the blower fan]." I would say lower your print temps. I think that depends on printer, UM's like to print PLA at 210. I've had to really lower the part cooling speed for filaments like Ninja Armadillo (nylon alternative) and Sainsmart's TPU because of the latter. I would say lower your print temps. I used washers to lower my DiiiCooler because I felt the stock height wasn't low enough on my machine. Very nice to see it is still greatly improved at full speed. It's also worth noting that different layer heights will influence overhangs (just like bridging). With my other mods, the overhang was still the most visibly problematic at faster speeds so I will be excited to see if I get decent quality prints when going faster using the Dii Cooler. Most items in this menu are editable values. Here are 3 different layer heights at the same fan speed. I ordered a radial fan from China that was wired backward and caught fire when I plugged it in. 1 and 2 were already enough for me to maintain temps, but the extra insulation makes it even easier for my machine. $89.95. Warping – also known as curling – is a phenomenon that naturally happens in 3D printing and is the most common problem that 3D printers encounter. I'm running my dii cooler with a 40 mm high static pressure server fan from a 1u server. I can see the nozzle is moving previous material is layed out as it's adding layers so leaving it all warped. I use 25-40% usually. As with temperature, the best speed for the object … I thought it redundant to test the difference between these setups. 210 is way too hot for any PLA I've printed. http://www.desiquintans.com/coolingtests2. I had mine tweaked to reach 100% by 15/20mm. With a lot of people mentioning running it between 25-40% fan speed, I often wondered what kind of difference there was between those results and 100%. I'm going to try those settings on this threaded leg and see what happens. Fan speed in Slic3r is 100% with the fan disabled for the first 6 layers. Well, for a base tune, grab a PLA profile you know works for you – or simply your slicer’s default profile – then reduce the part cooling fan speed a bit, 20 to 50% work well on most of my printers and adjust the temperature to match what your filament manufacturer suggests. My fan speed has always just been limited to 80% of maximum because I had 2 ducted fans and they were too much for the hot end to handle at 100%. 210 is way too hot for any PLA I've printed. You want as little of the air as possible hitting the hot end. Have your travel speed as fast as your printer can handle, for me I leave it at about 150mm/s. I'm currently trying to figure out how to use this eSun Gold PLA that isn't working well, currently looking like 210 for the nozzle and 65 for the bed to get it to actually stick together and not delaminate, completely been guessing fan speed. ... and a slower retraction speed (RS), than average for PLA. For materials such as PLA, PETG, CPE 100, a layer fan can be used to help quickly solidify the layers. These settings weren't meant to be "best case" or "worst case" for printing overhangs, but something in-between. The air movement should aim for the nozzle tip, fl… I use Simplify3D, and part of the advanced options seems to control the fan speed. A range of 30 mm/sec to 90 mm/sec is generally recommended for PLA. Initial Layer Speed: 20 mm/s; Printing Temperature: 200 °C; Speed: 50 mm/s; Bed Temperature: 60 °C; Retraction: 6 mm @ 25 mm/s; Layer height: 0.12 mm; Initial Fan Speed: 0%; Infill: 20%; PETG Settings. For the filament to expand it is necessary to put a certain amount of energy into the filament. I'm curious whether the radial coolers really perform better than just blowing a shitload of air straight at the printed area, but haven't really seen such comparisons. Each test print used identical slicer settings except for the fan speed. Add to Cart. Here are a few quotes from users who run their blower fans at partial speed: "Are you using a radial blower fan with the Ciicooler? Mine is wrapped in two layers of ceramic fiber insulation, secured with kapton tape. I only wanted to look at whether any setting below 100% can be 'just as good' as 100%. For higher quality end results, a lower printer speed is more likely to get you the finished product that you want. One of these is the fan speed – the speed at which the fans spin. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. Yeah, for me it wasn't that the cooler (Cobra in this case) couldn't go full power but at full power within 15mm of the bed it would significantly drop the nozzle temp because the air was bouncing off the bed.
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